WHY I SURF…
What we know…
History and story-telling lets us know that surfing has been around for a long time. Since the 12th Century, actually! That’s a lot of years of surf stories being passed down and around and back again. Everything from finding a secret surf spot, the sheer joy or fear of catching the biggest wave ever (even if only 2 feet), the excitement of skipping school when the swell was coming in, travelling the world to chase the swell and all the many experiences from just hanging out with friends in the line-up. The conversations while paddling out or sitting around a beach campfire at the end of the day, are moments never forgotten and forever cherished.
But what else…
Why do surfers wake up at the crack of dawn or rush home after work for just a few moments of paddling through the surf to catch that last sunset wave? What is it that draws us to the sea day in and day out?
Have a look at our WHY I Surf series below and stay tuned as we add more stories from team riders and ambassadors.
WHY I SURF – The Culture